| We've been
up and down the California coast, north to Mendocino, Eureka and the Oregon
border and south to Los Angeles and San Diego, but we have not been to
the central coast. San Luis Obispo, it is an enticing sounding name. A
colleague of my husband's who graduated from the Cal Polytech in San Luis
Obispo said he would want to retire there. Sunset magazine recommended
Morro Bay just 12 miles north of the San Luis Obispo City as less crowded
but equally beautiful coastal area full of wild lives and water sports
activities. I wanted to see the old mission buildings and gardens. So we
took a short vacation and spent two nights in San Luis Obispo.
Laguna
Lake
Driving there,
down 101 from San Jose, it was surprisingly easy and quick, just about
three and half hours. After a quick late lunch, there was plenty
of daylight as well as energy left for the day. We dipped in the
hotel pool, a must for our four-year old. We took a walk along the Laguna
Lake Park just across the street from the Embassy Suits where we were staying.
We flew a kite and ran around in the playground adjacent the lake. Simple
houses line the shore opposite the park, each with a boat tied to its dock.
Geese and ganders swam in V-shape in the lake. Wild turkeys hid away in
bushes along the lake. Smoke and aroma from the BBQ stalls in the park
snaked up the sky and found its way to our noses. The leisure pace all
around us sure reminded us that we were on vacation.
Morro Bay
The next morning,
we set off for Morro Bay, heading for the Museum of Natural History in
Morro Bay State Park. The museum sits on the cliff and has great vantage
point over the bay. From there, we saw dozens of kayaks and canoes dotting
the green bay beneath us and the bay as calm as a lake. A long stretching
sand dune peninsula banks the outer side of the bay separating out the
Pacific Ocean. I am a novice at rowing but the bay water seemed smooth
enough for even me to handle. We decided to try canoeing.
We rowed our
rented canoe out from the state park dock at noontime heading for the sand
dune straight across. For 40 minutes we rowed toward the sand dune shore,
skating occasionally on top of patches of seaweed. The shore seemed so
close yet so hard to get to. At last, we were on the shore. There was no
one in sight but footprints leading over the towering sand dunes. We trod
up the sand dune and the Pacific Ocean spread just beyond. Few swimmers
and gulls were chasing the white foams retrieving from the beach and the
famous Morro Rock stands at the mouth of the bay. Looking toward inland,
sister rocks of Morro Rock top the green hills by the coast. We did not
linger long in anticipation for the tough rowing back. It turned out that
the rowing back to the dock was a breeze with the wind on our back. The
outing gave us a good workout and we worked up a good appetite for our
lunch.
The state
park itself is a sanctuary for birds. Gulls and a lone falcon glided overhead,
a few pelicans perched and bobbed on top of buoys, here and there wild
ducks floated in the bay and black birds chirp away in the trees. Sea breezes
and tall eucalyptus trees cooled the trail by the shore even in high noon
when the sun was blazing away. A heat wave was passing through the state
but we hardly felt it in this coastal hideaway.
The next day,
we hadn't planned to go back to Morro Bay but my husband left our camera
and binocular on the boat dock so we had to go back. Since we were there,
we went canoeing again, this time a little deeper into the bay. We brought
lunch and intended to stay out a little longer. After we rowed ashore across
the bay, we trod up one sand dune but another lied beyond. We trod and
trod but could not see the white waves or the ocean. Where we landed the
width of the sand dune peninsular was much fatter and we had underestimated
the effort it took to climb over it. All around us the sand dunes stacked
up over us with no end in sight. We were exhausted and could easily imagined
what the dessert must be like and what it felt to be lost in one, except
we still had the cool breeze to comfort us. Exhausted and hungry, we decided
to have our lunch right then and there. After lunch and a little rest,
we had our strength back. Just a few steps further, we saw the ocean and
the waves. We were the only people on a long stretch of beach with seagulls
feeding off what the tides brought in keeping us company. We must have
stayed out quite a long time, for when we set out the tide was high but
when we rowed in, we nearly got stranded on the shallow seaweed patches
several times before we finally got back to the dock.
Mission
San Luis Obispo de Tolosa
Founded in
September 1st, 1772 by Father Junipero Serra, Mission San Luis Obispo de
Tolosa is still today the center of its community. It was the 5th Spanish
Mission established in California in a series of 21 and it was named for
Saint Louis, Bishop of Toulouse. Located right in the heart of the San
Luis Obispo City downtown, the buildings and gardens lost a lot of its
luster amidst a sprawling urban area. It is hard to recall the image when
crops, vineyards, and grazing cattle and sheep once surrounded the mission.
The eaves of the adobe buildings are armed with nails to discourage the
sparrows from nesting while long ago sparrows were the welcomed visitors
bringing the tidings of spring every year. Instead of sparrows, the
city welcomes vineyards and expensive estates as its neighbors. The area
is another Napa Valley in the making.
Morro Bay
City Harbor and Port San Luis Harbor
Seafood restaurants
bustled with diners on the piers of Morro Bay City Harbor. Tourist strolled
the streets and filled every available parking space. At dusk the area
was still lively and crowed. In contrast, only a few lingering fishermen
awaited their last catch of the day on the boardwalks of Port San Luis
Harbor. Soon darkness would set over the area with only flickering campfires
to be seen from campers cooking outside their trailers. While diners
enjoy the fresh catch of the day prepared by chefs in restaurants on Morro
Bay Harbor piers, campers cleaned and scaled their own catch and roasted
their fresh catch on the campfire. Next to the San Luis Port, Avila Beach
was once popular and vibrant before an underground oil pipeline pollution
was discovered. A patch of fenced in construction marks the cleanup and
rebuilt effort while only a few swimmers populated a long stretch of beautiful
white sand beach. Soon enough, it will be crowded again.
***
Driving home,
the temperature indicator on our car fluctuated first from mid 70's to
over 100 when we left the coast and entered the central coastal valleys.
Then it cooled to mid 80's by the Monterey Bay sea breezes when we were
passing through Salinas. It soared back up to over 100 again when
we reached San Jose. Fortunately, that was the last day of the three-day
heat wave that heated up the week of July Fourth and home is still as sweet
as can be.
|